Curry and kulfi from Kerala: Indian recipes with mango from Sonal Ved | Indian food and drink


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In Indian kitchens, mangoes are sacred. We wait all year for the ripest fruit, savoring it from seed to skin. You’ll find praise for mangoes in the Vedas and Valmiki’s Ramayana, two early Hindu scriptures, but the most delightful story is that of Kamdev, the Indian cupid who shot mango blossom arrows at gods and gods. humans. Mythological stories aside, the most celebratory part of this golden fruit is how it goes from sour pickle to spicy sabzi and sweet dessert, all with the grace of a kathak dancer’s wrists.

Mambazha Pulisserie

Pulissery refers to a South Indian variety of curry made with spicy buttermilk and coconut. Here, the refreshing pulisserie turns into a yellow dandelion curry, with the addition of ripe mangoes, and is gently tempered with fragrant coconut oil, curry leaves and spices. Serve warm but not too hot with red matta rice.

Preparation 10 minutes
To cook 25 minutes
Serves 2

90 g freshly grated coconut
2 teaspoons of cumin seeds
3 ripe badami or mini mangoes
peeled
Salt, to taste
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
Paste of 1 green chilli

8-10 curry leaves
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
500ml yogurt
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 pinch of fenugreek seeds

2 tsp mustard seeds
4-5 daysred peppers

In a blender, grind the coconut and cumin seeds. Add three to five tablespoons of water to smooth the mixture, then set aside.

Put the mangoes in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and season with salt and chilli powder. Add the chili paste, four to five curry leaves and enough water to cover the mangoes. Add the turmeric then cook, covered, over medium heat for 10 minutes.

Once most of the water has evaporated and the mangoes have softened, add the coconut paste and cook for another four to five minutes. Add the yogurt and mix well, then remove from the heat. The sauce should gently coat the mango but not too thin – the consistency of pasta sauce. Be careful not to overcook it or the yogurt could start to split.

Heat the coconut oil in a frying pan to temper, then add the fenugreek and mustard seeds, dry red chillies and remaining curry leaves. Once everything starts to crackle, pour it over the pulissery and stir. Serve with red matta rice.

Mango kulfi

Even before the Mughals influenced Indian cuisine around the 16th century, desserts made from evaporated milk were common in India. But it was their idea to flavor it with ingredients like pistachio and saffron, and create a frozen treat. And that’s how kulfi was born.

Preparation 5 minutes
To cook 45 minutes
Freeze Overnight
Makes 4-5

240ml milk
55ml condensed milk
Sugar,
to taste (optional)
240 ml full cream
240 ml fresh mango purée
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

8 strands of saffrondiluted in 1 tablespoon hot milk (optional)
1 tablespoon of pistachios and 1 tablespoon of almondstapered

Put the milk in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer slowly, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until it thickens. Scrape milk that solidifies from the side of the pan towards the center.

Add the condensed milk and sugar, if using, then, once the liquid has reduced by half, remove from the heat and let cool completely.

Once cooled, add cream, mango puree, cardamom, saffron (if using) and stir until well blended. (You can use a hand blender to introduce air into it.) Pour the mixture into kulfi molds and freeze overnight. If you want the kulfi to be extra smooth, freeze it in a cooler, mix it up, then freeze it again. Repeat this process three times, then pour the mixture into kulfi molds and freeze.

To serve, unmold the kulfi and garnish with pistachios and almond flakes.

Sonal Ved’s most recent book is Tiffin: 500 authentic recipes celebrating India’s regional cuisine, published by Black Dog & Leventhal at £25. She is also the author of Whose Samosa is it Anyway? The Story of Where “Indian” Food Really Came From, published by Penguin Viking at £15.

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