John Ash shares ideas for cooking with coffee


12 black peppercorns

20 coriander seeds

3 whole cloves

2 juniper berries

½ inch cinnamon stick

1 small bay leaf

3 tablespoons freshly ground espresso coffee (very fine ground)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons of sugar

12 half-boned quails

5 tablespoons of olive oil

2 bunches of spinach, well washed and hulled

2 tablespoons of butter

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Vanilla sauce (recipe below)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. On a baking sheet, arrange the sesame seeds, peppercorns, cilantro, cloves, juniper berries and cinnamon in separate piles and toast until the sesame seeds are golden brown (about 8 minutes). Remove and using an electric coffee grinder, finely grind the toasted spices and the bay leaf. Add the coffee, salt and sugar and continue grinding until the mixture is finely ground. Increase oven heat to 450 degrees.

Lightly rub the quails with 2 tablespoons of olive oil then rub with the spice mixture. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. In a heavy ovenproof sauté pan large enough to hold all the quails in a single layer, heat the remaining oil and brown the quails on all sides over medium heat. It will take 4-5 minutes. Flip all the quails breast side up and put in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes to finish cooking. Test by inserting the tip of a knife at the thigh joint. The juices should run clear, but the meat should still be slightly pink and juicy.

To serve: Quickly sauté spinach in butter until just wilted. Season with salt and pepper and arrange in the middle of hot plates. Garnish with two quails and coat with vanilla sauce around.

Vanilla Sauce

3 tablespoons chopped shallot

½ cup sliced ​​mushrooms

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 cups savory quail or chicken broth

1 cup dry white wine

⅔ cup heavy cream

1 vanilla pod 3 inches, split

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Sauté shallots and mushrooms in 1 tbsp butter until tender but not brown. Add broth and wine and reduce by half over high heat, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the cream and vanilla bean and reduce again to a light sauce consistency, about 5 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer, pressing out any solids. Scrape the soft center of the vanilla bean into the strained sauce and discard the bean. Adjust the seasoning with a few drops of lemon juice, salt and pepper. Whisk the rest of the butter into pieces. Hold the sauce in a hot water bath or thermos until ready to serve (up to 3 hours).

This scrub is easy to make. Just rub the beef, pork or lamb with a little olive oil, then massage. Let sit for an hour before grilling on a barbecue or in a ridged grill pan.

Chilli Dry Rub Coffee

Makes about ½ cup, enough for 4 good sized steaks

2 tablespoons finely ground roasted coffee

2 tablespoons ancho chili powder

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons kosher salt

In a small bowl, mix all the ingredients well to break up the brown sugar into fine crystals.

Generously sprinkle a thin layer of rub on the oil-brushed steak, then massage it with your fingers so that it adheres. Let stand at least an hour at room temperature before grilling.

The great virtue of beef brisket is that it is marbled with fat between connective tissue or collagen. This tissue, when slowly cooked in an oven or smoker or braised in a flavorful liquid, melts and the meat fiber softens to yield one of the most succulent cuts of meat imaginable. Brisket has become a very “in” cut and certainly one of the most versatile, whether part of a Kansas City or Texas barbecue, sliced ​​for a Southeast Asian pho, simmered for an Italian bollito misto, sprinkled for St. Patrick’s Day or roasted over the embers. for Rosh Hashanah.

This is one of my favorite recipes for this humble cut of meat. Like most stews or braises, it’s even better reheated the next day.

Coffee Braised Breast

Makes 6-8 servings

4 tablespoons of olive oil

4 pounds beef brisket, trimmed of excess fat, if necessary

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 large onions (1 ½ – 2 pounds), sliced

¼ cup sliced ​​fresh garlic

2 tablespoons (or more) ancho or chipotle chili powder

2 teaspoons whole fennel seeds

2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds

⅔ cup brown sugar

⅔ cup apple cider vinegar

4 cups strong brewed coffee

1 cup rich meat or mushroom broth

1 can (14½ ounces) diced tomatoes in juice

Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to a deep pot or Dutch oven and quickly brown the brisket on both sides, seasoning generously with salt and pepper. Remove the meat from the pan, discard the fat and wipe out the pan.

Back on the stove, add the remaining oil and sauté the onion and garlic until they just start to color. Add chili and sauté for an additional minute or until fragrant. Add the spices, sugar, vinegar, coffee, broth and tomatoes and bring to a boil. Return the meat to the pot, cover and place in a preheated 300 degree oven for 3 to 3.5 hours or until the meat is very tender.


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