SET MENU: Battle for brekkies, pop-up restaurants, London’s best trifles and more


All the great London lunches in one place? Yes please said Joanna Taylor

What defines a breakfast of champions? Is it having scrambled eggs instead of fried, tomatoes instead of baked beans, or grilled bacon instead of being sizzled in oil? Due to the subjective nature of such a potentially deadly question, our answer would usually be “Who knows?” harmless enough. But now apparently someone does.

Sausage Press is a brand new London food guide concept brilliantly crafted by journalist Ben Smith and food and drink development maestro Jules Pearson, and the first brochure is about the best fries in the capital. Invaluable? Yes. But it was the brand’s pop-up at The Hoxton Southwark that really made our stomachs rumble.

After narrowing down the city’s various options to must-see spots, the couple picked the best of each breakfast at some of the chosen institutions mentioned and piled them all on one plate for two days of ‘Greatest Hits’ fried foods. So, in case you’re wondering, it’s going to be Dishoom’s ever-so-spicy bean masala, Beppe’s deliciously guilt-inducing fried slice, Riding House Cafés’ silky bacon, Norman’s new kid on the block, Big Sausages, the eggs of Pelliccli and the skillfully concocted hash browns from Hash E8. And if that doesn’t whet your appetite, each restaurant gets a free guidebook with their breakfast and has the option to purchase fancy fries printouts at other popular establishments, including Mary’s Cafe and, of course, , the Wolsley. Now the only question is: red or brown sauce?

9am-2pm, July 9-10 (

Breakfast at Norman’s

/ sausage press


After Queenie’s winning Platinum Jubilee Pudding, this old-fashioned dessert is firmly back on the menu and it’s the best renditions

Dining rooms Holborn, WC

Is there anything this West End spot doesn’t do well? No. And this tart take on the classic, packed with Yorkshire rhubarb and invigorating ginger, is proof of that.

The Pelican, W11

For a very traditional version, dive into this one with strawberry jelly, a sherry-soaked sponge, Marsala, vanilla custard, whipped cream, and hundreds and thousands.

Reservation Office 1869, NW1

The only thing more fun than slipping into layers of deliciously retro strawberry jelly and poached rhubarb is this restaurant’s glamorous neo-Gothic setting.

The trifle at the Booking Office 1869

/ John Carey


Douglas Blyde sips the best of British blush

With its popularity soaring, it’s no surprise that fears of a global still rosé wine drought are often in the headlines. Luckily we make decent roses here in England. Sarah Massey’s affordable Aldi offering from Lyme Bay Winery in Axminster is part of the jovially named Bowler & Brolly range and the berry-scented Specially Selected rosé (£9.99) is delicate, precise and drinkable.

For a deeper, richer rosé, try Calafuria from Puglia. A project of the legendary Antinori winemaking dynasty, the watermelon-scented wine is harvested from indigenous Negroamaro vines between the woods and the sea (£19.99/£40.99, bottle/magnum; Finally, the rarest, reddest and most expensive rosé.

I recommend Rose-Marie du Chateau le Puy de Bordeaux 2018 (£48; The blood-colored masterpiece centers on 50-year-old Merlot vines and is crafted to lunar rhythms. At four years old, it proves that truly great rosés can have the power to age.

Calafuria rosé

/ Calafuria


Pop-ups and events to have on your radar

July, 1st : Matt Beardmore from Legare teams up with George Ryle from the Garden Café for a four-course Italian feast using the finest British ingredients amongst the spectacular foliage of the Garden Museum.

July 4: Always stylish Parisian bar Le Syndicat, specializing in traditional French spirits, heads to beautiful Swift Shoreditch for an all-night collaboration to celebrate each location’s talented mixologists.

July the 5th : Brooklyn’s popular natural wine bar and restaurant, The Four Horsemen, co-owned by LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy, is coming from the US and making an appearance at Rondo Le Cave.

July 6: Discover the wonderful wine that South America has to offer during an evening of tastings and discussions at the Latin American restaurant Paladar with renowned wine expert Amanda Barnes. Tickets £60

July 7: Hurry to Where The Pancakes Are for Pancakes From Around The World, where guest chefs Anna Haugh, Amy Poon, Lee Johnson and Sinead Campbell will take over the menu. Tickets £25

Until July 10: It’s Pimm time, people! Head down to the Drinks Brand Terrace in Covent Garden’s East Square for live Wimbledon screenings and a cup or two in the summer. Covent Garden Market, WC2

Until August 31: Head to Scott’s seafood paradise in Mayfair to sip a sip on the new Midsummer on Mount Street sun terrace designed by De Gournay in collaboration with Krug Champagne. 20 Mount Street, W1

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