Menus at The Warehouse change with the seasons – fixed star dishes aside – and the summer swaps look glorious. Chef/owner James Africano satisfies carnivores and vegans with light and playful dining options – we sample some, I describe others. For appetizers, scallop and blood orange cevichebright citrus and coriander, carries a crunch of cucumber, radish and celery.
The bean and mint ravioli marries classic spring flavors with simple, satisfying, traditional Italian cuisine. Fancy something daring? Try the awesome homemade dried bison tongue pastrami, served with rye crackers, pickled mustard seeds and Dijon mustard. On the light and refreshing side, the vegan honeydew and cucumber gazpacho uses agave instead of honey to slightly sweeten chilled soup.
A vegan starter, grilled cabbage “chops” aims for meatless steakhouse flavors. Cabbage hearts on the stalk are grilled, served with asparagus and potatoes, and topped with a yellow tomato bearnaise sauce that Africano says will knock your socks off. The Microvora Mushroom Enchilada Stack offers stacked New Mexico-style enchiladas, which can easily be vegan by holding the cheese and cream.
For carnivores, try the grilled lamb porterenhanced with flavors of cherries, fennel and tarragon, or the grilled veal loin with a Marsala wine sauce. If you’re looking for something a little lighter, but still deliciously decadent, go for the homemade one. bucatini and prawns with a lively lemony ricotta sauce. The pasta machine, acquired during the 2020 closing, is put to good use here. For a traditional picnic on a whole new level, quail with chicken hit every note. The quail is marinated in buttermilk and is served with a tomato/cucumber/watermelon salad, plus marinated watermelon rind.
From the dessert menu there is a delicious simple chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwich with whipped cherries and a sublime moscato and honey granita, which is like a pile of snow that tastes like sweet dessert wine. The Buttermilk Peach Pie starts with a layer of peach compote, then buttermilk custard, topped with glazed peaches. These seasonal plates will remain in place until around the autumnal equinox, September 22.